3 takeaways from visiting European apparel trade fairs
Visiting trade fairs is a good way to connect with many potential new buyers in a short time period and learn about market trends. CBI visited the ‘Who’s Next’ trade fair in France in January this year and went to the ‘Modefabriek’ in July. The Modefabriek is the largest and leading fashion trade fair for women’s clothing in the Netherlands, where over 300 mostly European brands exhibited their new collections. Here are the three most important takeaways after visiting these fairs.
1. Successful smaller brands dominated the scene
The exhibitor lists of both the Who’s Next and Modefabriek trade fair were dominated by brands that are relatively young, small and fast-growing. These brands often started and built their success online before moving into wholesale and small retail. Such brands are data-driven and closely monitor everything from consumer-preferences to replenishment and sustainable performance. They have little overhead and focus on selling fashionable, creative designs for a specific group of customers.
Many such brands prefer to outsource as much of the production process as possible. This includes patternmaking, developing size charts, material sourcing, production, quality control and certification. Some new brands even ask factories to produce styles based on a single picture. When it comes to transport, brands may ask manufacturers to deliver the products at their doorstep: shifting from Free on Board (FOB) to Delivery Duty Paid (DDP). This means higher risk for manufacturers, so prepare well before you say yes to any such deal.
2. The business culture has opened up
Another noticeable development was the easiness to discuss any topic with sales representatives at the exhibition stands, from sourcing to sustainability. The influence of new laws requiring fashion companies to show full supply chain transparency is noticeable here. Industry initiatives such as the Open Supply Hub, the Transparency Pledge and the Fashion Transparency Index have also undoubtedly promoted this trend. As confirmed by one of the co-founders of Belgian fashion brand Les Soeurs, exhibiting at the Modefabriek: “you multiply by sharing.”
Be willing to share information, especially if you want to enter markets that are new to you, says Les Soeurs co-founder Clio Hendrickx.
3. Sustainability is still very important, but less advertised
The size of the sustainable fashion industry will continue to grow as more brands will offer sustainable choices in the years to come. It is however striking that this seems to be less advertised during trade fairs. Many trade fairs used to reserve a special area for ‘sustainable brands’. These brands were advertised with big banners and signs. During this year’s edition at the Modefabriek, the only way for visitors to know which brands are considered ‘more sustainable’ is by downloading an app and follow a ‘Responsible Route’ that leads them along brands that adhere to certain criteria for sustainability. Big banners and signs are gone.
Most brands have also stopped advertising sustainability inside their booths. Hangtags refer to the use of sustainable materials or certifications, but big signs with rather vague terms such as ‘eco’ or ‘responsible’ are gone. This is likely due to the EU’s new Green Claims Directive that mandates that every sustainability claim has to be backed-up by data and proof. If you are a manufacturer of sustainable styles, make sure that you can provide your buyers the accompanying data to support sustainability claims.
Read more about European buyer requirements, sustainable design and materials and European business culture here. Do you want to visit or exhibit at a trade fair yourself? Check out FashionUnited’s Trade Fair Calendar for a list of upcoming European fashion trade fairs.
FT Journalistiek and Giovanni Beatrice wrote this news article for CBI .
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